Mommsenstadion, Berlin

Fixture: Tennis Borussia Berlin vs Brandenburg Sud
League: Berlinliga
Date: August 2010
Notes: The first (and only) time I've seen anti-homophobia banners at a game. Also, the TeBe club sponsor has a cow for a logo. The club shop is hidden within the main stand and was a wonderful stepback into an old-fashioned sports shop, with its mixtures of stickers, patches, last-season's-kit-at-reduced-prices and general sense of chaos. Due to the lilac colour of their shirts, the players run out to Gogol Bordello's 'Start wearing purple'.

Our first night in Berlin and, despite the torrential rain, we chose to take the S-Bahn out to Messe Sud to visit the Mommsentstadion, the home of fussball, freunde and rock'n'roll. This was the first match of the season and financially threatened TeBe would get the ball rolling in style by ending up on the wrong end of a 5-0 doing from local rivals Brandenburg Sud. Presumably all Berlinliga games fall into the 'local rivals' category, however there was a surprisingly hefty police presence considering the anticipated size of the crowd. Having said that, Brandenburg Sud brought a large and vocal travelling support, which seemed a bit at odds with the level of play on the field. There was no sign of trouble though, with both sets of fans occupying the same stand and making a fair old racket. It lashed down for most of the game but we had a great time, helped by beer, wurst and coffee from the clubhouse situated within the main stand and offering access straight onto the terrace. Perfect. Despite the result we went away smitten and headed back to the S-Bahn making place for a return trip to see our heroes in purple.